Tuesday, March 15, 2016

South African Wine Safari with VM Travel Adventures

November is Spring in South Africa!!!

VM Travel Adventures' very first South African Wine Safari kicked off in Plettenberg Bay, South Africa.  Our tour route would take us westbound along the Western Cape of Africa's southernmost continent ending in Cape Town with a climb up Table Mountain!

The Radchenko "birding team" and 7 other family members were picked up in George and subsequently whisked around in the van on the wrong side of the road for two weeks.

Rory and Natascha collaborated with Rory's family to provide a wonderful family visit of which the highlights were a beach braai BBQ with home cooked ingredients from Lederle's Bakery.  We did some fishing and some kayaking, enjoyed sundowners after rocky hikes on the peninsula.  Plettenberg Bay is a magical place offering the tourist the utmost holiday of adventure, animals and jungled forests.  Within these forests we got to swing from the tall canopies trying to catch a glimpse of a vervet monkey or a Knysna Lourie, a green curious fellow that warns you of danger.  We walked with the elephants in the sanctuary and learned all about their wildlife habits....  Sherry could not resit a ride on these majestic and endangered giants.... a once in a lifetime event! 


Once we were comfortable with the animals, monkeys and birds, we swiftly jumped out of our comfort zone with the Worlds' Tallest Bugee off of the Bloukrans Brige.  219 metres of Bungee and some fancy flying with Rory's drone made Myles' jump sensational!!

It seemed that the wonderful flavours of Africa followed us everywhere.... the wines we focused on were the non-chocolatey Pinotages along with the Chenin Blancs, both flagship wines of South Africa.  We tried a handful of different wild game flavours, Zebra, Ostrich, Kudu and Gemsbok.  Each and every restaurant had outstanding service and a complete wine list!  Some favourites included Cape Malay Curry, chicken livers, fresh fish and chips and peri-peri spice, of course!



The Garden Route Game Lodge gave us a good view of the BIG 5 up close and personally with our eccentric guide, Wessel.  He was passionate about the animals, and sadly predicts that there will be NO rhinos left in South Africa in a matter of 6 years.  SAVE THE RHINO!







The game lodge was an educational experience and the reptiles were much adored by all!  Next, we were whisked off to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa!  Peta hosted us in Saandbai, where the Atlantic Ocean and the Indian Ocean meet.  Myles collected shells and other crustaceans while we enjoyed walk on the beach some down time.   A sneaky back road to the Elim wine region had us off-roading with the locals and we caught a glimpse of a Secretary Bird and several Blue Cranes.

And the wine tour begins!  A charcuterie and wine tasting lunch at the Black Oystercatcher was our second stop in a long list of wineries we were about to visit....  Zain toured us through the Glen Carlou Winery and we set off for cheese and wine - and cheese - and wine at Fairview, where "goats do roam"!

The adorable metre was off the charts when we visited the penguins in Betty's Bay, and we kept our eyes peeled for the Southern Right Whale alone the Atlantic coast as we approached Paarl and Cape Town.   We partook in the Wellington Wine Walk, trekking 9 KMS though 4 vineyards and 'fynbos' interspersed by wine tasting and lunch!  Our host Vanessa at Ridgeback winery kept us busy in the region, visiting Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franshoek.  The highlight of this town was the market and the Cellarmaster's tasting and tour at Haute Carbriere...... the wine just kept on flowing and the giggles in the room crescendoed!

In Cape Town we saw all of the beaches, Hout Bay, Camp's Bay and Llandudno.  We even took a boat ride from the V & A Waterfront to Robben Island, the prison of Nelson Mandela, his having spent 18 years here in his 27 years of incarceration.   Madiba's memory lives on everywhere in Africa.  

Thanks so much to the family members and friends of VM Travel Adventures.  It was a pleasure to travel with such a fun group and the fun never stopped!  The biology and birding lessons made it an educational experience!

We plan on going back to Africa for more exquisite accommodation, gourmet cuisine and stunning beaches!  Until then we can enjoy our 'sundowners' and dream of our return to the Msanzi 'south' of Africa!  
Tot-Zins and until next time!!!

Natascha
Life is too short not to have this much fun!


Thursday, March 3, 2016

Botswana's: Sundowners in the Okavango Delta

DUMELA!!!

Nine adventuresome travellers decided to extend their South African Wine Safari with a week in the Okavango Delta in Botswana.


Botswana has all the animals.  Their tough stance on poaching means that tourists get to see most of the animals that move through the delta, depending on rainfall and the season.  To the north, Namibia's rainfall and runoff comes into the Okavango panhandle, creating the swampy reed land that we got to discover by safari jeep, boat, mokoro canoe and on foot.



Our tight knit group had just finished wine touring in South Africa and we were ready for our next adventure.  After an early departure from Cape Town and a short layover in Johannesburg, we found ourselves in Maun, Botswana.  After being greeting by Harmony from Ker & Downey Camps, we shed some weight, packed a light suitcase and we were taking to the skies again.  After all, you don't need much but light safari clothing as the camps provided absolutely everything you could think of.

Our airplanes just kept getting smaller that day as we boarded the Cessna plane with 8 seats.  From the skies we could see rain falling in the distance, and lightning touching the Kalahari desert floor.  Elephants and Hippos were running around looking like tiny but lumbering creatures running in herds.








The small and bumpy plane ride had us fascinated...but wait!??  Where is Adrienne?  We discovered that she hopped up on the plane departing before us and we found her waiting there for us on the sand airstrip at Kanana Camp for us.


We embarked on Safari first thing.  No time to waste when you are looking for the elusive animals and BIRDS of the Kalahari. On our way into camp we saw Impala with hundreds of babies, baboons, Vervet monkeys and...our most beautifully coloured creature, the Lilac breasted Roller.

Myles and Phyllis had honed the skill of snapping up the binocs anytime we saw a little -bird- a- fluttering.  With three bird books going, and our awesome rangers's assistance, they managed to collect another 100+ 'lifers' or first time birds personally identified in Botswana alone.

But we didn't just look at birds...!  We were busy every day with a new adventure.  The superb camp hosts kept throwing surprises into any given day of Safari.  One day they set up lunch at the Crocodile pool, the next day we went out on the boats do do a little 'cat'-fishing.  The guides and hosts understood that our fun-loving group had an affiliation for Gin & Tonics and they never hesitated to make us few at sundowner hour.  Under the pink skies, our sundowners were always a special time.  We could see the evening set in, the birds come back to the water to gather and catch fish and the jackals waiting on the bank not far away....

Our dear friends at the Kanana camp will be missed. They shared their singing and dancing with us and it made us shed a tear, we felt so welcomed.  We even tried to learn a little bit of Setswana with our guides Simon and Doctor, who is so called due to his name Naka Emmang or "who is the doctor?" in his native tongue.  We promised to return one day to Kanana to check up on our chameleon in the bush next to tent 4 and the elephants and hippos that pass by in the dark of night, just catching a snack outside your window.

Another cessna flight had us change camps to land at the Xaxanaka airstrip to visit the Okuti Camp. Okuti was very different and quite a bit further north than Kanana and Maun.  There were fires just north of the camp and we were slightly concerned, only to be put at ease by our hosts. These fires start spontaneously due to the 40ºC heat, and then are put out on their own by a nearby waterway, but help was at hand should the fires have picked up.

Chachos and Solomon looked after us while we got to know Monnie and Toffee in the kitchen at camp.  Everyone sits together during meals so we can compare notes about what we saw.  We made new friends and even taught them how to fly a drone! Thanks for sharing your knowledge Rory!

What was a typical day like you might ask?

 5:30 am wake-up in your tent with coffee or tea brought to you.

6AM: Abundant breakfast and departure immediately after on the safari trucks.



More food at 10 during coffee break and then a big lunch at 12:00.  Siesta time until 3:30 when we hopped back in the trucks to discover more amazing Okavango animals!

Sunset had us drinking Gin & Tonic and then we continued with night safari on the way back to camp for dinner.  UF!  Long days of being exposed to such new things is tiresome but you go to bed feeling so fulfilled!







What was our most interesting animal observed?  Probably the female leopard who had a kill.  She hid the baby impala (which are abundant due to the start of the rains) in the long grass, as if she was hiding it from us.  She pulled it out of the grass right in front of us to move her prize to another location and we found her digesting up a tree the next day.  I never thought I would see a leopard!! Sadly, all of the pictures of her were taken by Rory, the professional filmmaker.... ( I was frozen in awe watching her...)





After the busy six day adventure we it was time to go home.  We said more goodbyes with more singing and pictures.  We returned from camp life changed Canadians, with an appreciation for desert heat, delta water and the kind, hard working crew at the Ker & Downey Camps.  Incredible trip of a lifetime.

Natascha


Saturday, February 13, 2016

The 'Landscapes of Wine' in Chile & Argentina

 "Don't worry about taking us to too many wineries, we have been PRACTICING....!"  Famous last words from the Vancouver travellers who visited Chile and Argentina with 
VM Travel Adventures in November, 2015.  


Jane McEwing with husband Marc, invited their architect friends who invited other friends and soon their group was comprised of fun loving folks from all across Canada AND Mexico!



Our pre-tour adventure started in the Vega Market in Santiago de Chile.  This is a place where you find few tourists, but we made some new local friends.  We were lucky to have our personal chef and dear friend Rodrigo Margolles take us through the market to discover new fruits, seeds, nuts and veggies that we wouldn't other wise know how to eat!  From the produce and fish markets straight to the table, we cooked and 'practiced' for our wine tour while drinking some lovely Sauvingnon blancs from Casablanca.  Ceviche, Risotto and Plateda beef prepared by us and into our tummies.  It was a feast for the senses, and we had not even started wine touring yet!

The group got together at the 5* Plaza San Francisco Hotel for some touring around Santiago's centre and Lastarria district, where the group discovered pisco chileno.  Time for more 'practicing' as Pisco is Chile's national drink.  Chipe Libre served up this white wine brandy as a 'sour' or with Cola or... even on it's own.
La Moneda y Carabineros, Santiago

Near Santiago we explored the Maipo Valley with a visit to Perez Cruz Modern bodega, where they are famous for the Cot (or Malbec) wines they make, stressing the importance of gravity used in winemaking.  We met the legendary 'Devil' of Concha Y Toro before taking off to Santa Cruz for another experience in Chilean Viticulture in the Colchagua Valley.   Casa Lapostolle and Santa Cruz wines were enjoyed while staying at the Santa Cruz Hotel.
Hacienda Araucano, Lolol


Casa Lapostolle's Clos Apalta Vineyard 
The architects in the group were fascinated by some of these winery buildings and landscape, admiring sculptures and gardens, all diverse and different from the Vancouver greenery.  A yellow carpet of flowers welcomed us to the Hacienda Araucano while Carlos took us through the whole portfolio of Francois Lurton's Chilean wines.  We were so lucky to have visited this place near Lolol. We were the only guests who have the privilege of spending time here and doing yoga in the empty pool, this winery is not open for tourism.


Handmade Huaso Hats

Me made sure to get a 'huaso' cowboy hat, hand made by a local before boarding the Andesmar double decker bus for the trek over the Andes Mountains.  Chef Rodrigo left us with a little surprise picnic to enjoy with wine on the 5 hour bus ride over the 30+ curves on the Chilean side. 

Cordillera de los Andes Switchbacks

Once through the border we enjoyed the snow covered purple mountains on our descent into Mendoza, Argentina.  

The Club Tapiz hosted us for three nights and we commenced our visits to a few more wineries..... we still needed practice!


At Acheval Ferrer we started tasting at 9:30 AM. Next, we discovered the art and the formidable bodega with and piano concert hall at Bodega Salentein and Victoria at Catena Zapata gave us a superb reception and opened some 'extra' 2013 Angelica Zapata Chardonnay.  


Finca Adalgisa hosted us for a dinner and we got to enjoy the wines of the Club Tapiz every night while Alejandro regained us with stories of the animals of the Finca.

Surprise!!  Corinne flew in from Buenos Aires with two professional tango dancers and friends, Juan Carlos and Trinidad. They put on a show in the Roggerone room of the Club Tapiz and then got us up dancing some tango steps as well!  It makes you appreciate just how difficult this classical Argentine dance is, with the steps and embellishments being embellished by just a little more vino!!


Did we have enough practice trying the wines of Chile and Argentina?  Never!!  But it might be wise to pause and reflect, perfect our downward dog (why not in the pool?), and get back amongst it on the next wine tour with this group of felicitous friends.  Thanks for all of the laughs Jane and Marc, you surround yourself with admirable people and I was thankful to be a part of your crew for our serendipitous week together!


Hasta muy pronto y gracias!!  

The girl with the red boots,

Natascha
'Life is too short not to have this much fun...'



Saturday, December 5, 2015

An Adventure in Argentina



After 10 years of collaborating with Cecelia and Mel Jurgens to offer Sketchbook Workshop Tours around the world, this year’s Adventure in Argentina sadly missed the Jurgens family as they mourned the loss of Mel, husband and father and a solid support for our artist friends!
The artists theme was always present during the tour as former students of Cecelia and new beginners encouraged each other to capture the beauty of Argentina in their sketchbooks. A few days in Buenos Aires had us visit the colourful barrios of La Boca and San Telmo for tango in the streets and artisan fares! A guided walking tour of downtown Buenos Aires including the Plaza de Mayo, the Casa Rosada and San Martin’s tomb in the Cathedral  was followed by a lunch in the famous Tortonis. Here we discovered how grande a grande cerveza really was!!
After a couple of days in this city of 16 million we were whisked off to the tranquility of the La Cantera Jungle Lodge at Iguazu Falls. And yes, we got totally wet as Romina guided us along the upper and lower catwalks on the Argentine side of the falls and gleefully set us off on the Grand Adventure boat ride in the deluge of these massive water falls – one of the wonders of the Natural World.   

Another short flight took us to Salta, one of Argentina’s northern provinces with a strong Inca influence. One cannot imagine the intense colours of the mountains in this province. Some of us enjoyed capturing these ocres colours in our sketchbooks and all enjoyed Andres Hoy’s informative tour of the El Esteco winery!  Cafayate is the small microclimate of Salta’s wine production specializing in Torrontes and Tanat at high elevations. All yummy! As was the food!
Some of our guests delighted in consuming  beef specialities from all parts of the animal – inside and out in the typical Argentine Parrilla. Others tried goat and alpaca along with other delights of the Argentine meat based diet! Salad? What is that?
North of Salta in the Andes, Pumamarca in the province of Juyjuy was a highlight. We followed Leo our guide to the top of the Red hill for spectacular views of this little pueblo with its market and the hill of seven colours. Some of the group managed to find local music in one of the outdoor restaurants while others shopped for local artisan gifts. 

Soon we were back in Buenos Aires for some museum days, the Palermo gardens and a delightful Dinner Tango Show at Café de los Angelitos! A few adventuresome souls learned how to tango with Trini and Juan Carlos and then were swept off their feet in the oldest tango hall in BsAs,  Confeteria La Ideal as they put their steps to practice with the tango escorts!


Thanks to the whole group for pulling together in the spirit of the Jurgen family to make this another delightful experience for all!

Capture Morocco



Did we capture Morocco or did Morocco capture us?! This fall 12 adventurers from Canada set foot on Moroccan soil to experience this exotic country! Some were trekkers, some were photographers – all friends and students of Shannon Brunner, photographer from Saskatoon, Sask.
The Royal Air Maroc direct flight from Montreal had us in Casablanca in no time! Casablanca is a large commercial port but we managed to find lodging on the outskirts of the city close to the beach. Atlantic ocean waves disrupted the hundreds of pickup soccer matches which lasted until dusk –ending only when the sun set in the horizon. We travelled along this stunning coast past ancient portugeuse fortifications to settle on a local beach for the afternoon, some of us swam, some hiked and enjoyed the company of Moroccan families on the beach! For lunch? Sea urchins for those that dared! Local fishing activity kept us entertained for most of the afternoon. Once in Essaouria – yes we did practice saying this a few times – we meandered through narrow ruelles lined with artisan shops and fell asleep to the sound of the waves crashing  against the ramparts of the Riad Mimouna. Zac, our French Moroccan guide gave us a quick tour around the port to experience the hubbub of this fishing port where the catch of the day was offered up by competing kiosks. The one that captured our attention was the one that offered a cold beer option – only 1 mind you as it was not usually the custom. We were reluctant to leave this delightful village, but the Berber villages of the Atlas mountains were calling us! On our way inland towards Marrakech we visited the Argan Oil Women’s cooperative to learn why that oil, indigenous to Morocco is so darn expensive! 

We spent one tranquil night in the Imlil Lodge in the mountains. The higher altitude was chilly at night, but the wood burning fireplace and a beef tagine dinner had us tucked cozily into our beds early to prepare for the hikes the next day. The Mt. Toubkal group had an early start and managed the refuge quite easily, however weather moved in and the ascent to the top – 4167 meters was impossible despite their efforts. Those who participated on the Berber Village Hike had perfect weather and a delightful time with the Mt Toubkal Guide.

After the tranquility of the countryside the medina of Marrakech was busy and noisy – particularly La Place FNA with its snake charmers, watermen and musicians filling up the square as dusk fell. Around 4 pm the food kiosks were set up to offer kebabs, soups, snails and other specialties to locals and tourists alike. Highlights of Marrakech were the Majorelle Gardens, The Médersa Ben Youssef (14 century university) and the Berber pharmacy for spices and pigments. The courtyard at the Riad Catalilna was a welcome refuge after a busy day of bargaining the berber way!

At this point a few guests left the tour but a core group continued into the desert with the first stop in Ouarzazate, the Universal studio of the desert. Then on through more interesting landscape to the gateway to the desert Zagora and the garden Riad Lamane. Our day in the Bivouac of the desert was proceeded with the buying of turbans and learning to tie them before mounting the dromedaries (one hump camels) to trek across the desert at sunset- a photographer’s paradise!

It is said that Morocco is a country that travels within you. Clearly the Moroccan people and the diverse countryside touched the hearts of our travelers!
Thanks to Shannon gathering her group of friends to enjoy this adventure with us. 
See more photos of this tour on our Shutterfly Album
https://vmtravel1.shutterfly.com/1986