Tuesday, June 10, 2014

Zorzal Wine Tour of South America



ZORZAL

A dream come true – buy a little winery in Argentina and wine not?! 

This spring  32 guests from Western Canada and Ontario participated in a Zorzal Shareholders Wine Tour of Chile and Argentina.  For many of them it was their first visit to their winery nestled in the Uco Valley of Mendoza, Argentina.  They escaped the cold March temperatures in Canada for the warm harvest wind of South America.


The tour started in Santiago de Chile. Everyone streamed in on their own time to our lovely Plaza San Francisco Hotel in the downtown district.  Some had visited Peru, others Patagonia and some had opted for the wine tour of the Maipo Valley before coming together for a cocktail reception at the hotel that evening.  Yes, name tags were in order!  Although we all had one common interest – our Zorzal wine, many of us had never met before. The Zorzal group started in 2008 and recently new shareholders were welcomed to the Zorzal family, my sister and I amongst the lucky ones. 
Natascha arranged a private bus to take us to Vina del Mar to dip our toes in the Pacific Ocean and visit the colourful port of Valparaiso, the shipping point for our Zorzal Wine. We had a small window of time to take a boat tour of the harbour, but somehow the Chileanos just couldn’t get their act together to make it happen. 

Heading back to Santiago we stopped at the House of Gruppo Belin where we were thrilled to find a full slate of Zorzal Wines for sale.  Our Canadian flag welcomed us as we enjoyed a sparkling wine and an afternoon asado of roasted pig and an array of Chilean dishes and wines. 



Our private bus over the Andes was an adventure!  Once we navigated the 36 switchbacks through the Portillo Ski Resort we all scattered like marbles at the base of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in the Andes.  The gods were with us as the skies cleared to give us a perfect view of the massive glacier.  Everyone enjoyed the chance to stretch the legs.  With all our paperwork in order we nervously crossed the Argentine border and then the pressure was released as the corks started popping.  Included are a couple of mountain photos just in case some of you missed the scenery!

Once in Mendoza we nestled into our winery accommodations in Luyan de Cuyo and enjoyed a gourmet dinner at the Terruno Restaurant of Club Tapiz.Marco Toriano, a long time friend of Natascha and Corinne’s shared his passion for Argentine wines and particularly wines from the Uco Valley.  Now we know why are wines are so special as this valley has its own particular microclimate. Marco came with us to the Bodega Tapiz Winery where Carolina enchanted us with her knowledge of the unique wines of Mendoza.


Soon we were off to the Mareina Winery where the Bianco family shared the award winning Bonardas and Malbecs with complimenting dishes from the kitchen. A tango couple provided some dramatic entertainment, until Jane was invited to dance. It ended up to be  a comedy when we watched the footage that her best friend Marnie had taken of the spectacle.

Friday was the day at our winery – at last!  The weather was not looking so good as storm clouds and rain followed us along the Ruta 40 an hour south of Luyan de Cuyo.  But  the Uco Valley has its own weather pattern and we enjoyed the afternoon at the winery in full sunshine! We were thrilled to meet the Michilini Brothers, our famous winemakers!  They proudly showed off their innovative “ eggs” 10 of them in fact, before involving us in the de- stemming of the harvested grapes. We were happy to have their families join us for the afternoon asado on our property. A modest bodega, a few vines planted and lots of work to be done, but it is ours and it was a thrilling visit. 


To finish up the day some golfed (if you can call best ball golfing) at Tupungato Winelands, some just sat around in the warm sun with a glass of wine in hand and we eventually made our way to the Mendoza Park Hyatt Hotel for the night.
Our final day in Mendoza was relaxing, some shopping, some museum visits and many goodbyes.  We finished up our excess wine (if there is such a thing) at the farewell reception. The next day everyone went their separate ways.  A few couples visited fabulous Iguazu Falls, others joined Natascha and I for a Tango experience in Buenos Aires! 

When we were in a little wine shop in Buenos Aires most of the Zorzal wines were available.          We were told by the sommelier that the Michelini Brothers were the best and most innovative winemakers in Argentina and we are lucky to have them on our team!
The do us proud – look at the Robert Parker scores!!!
 2008    Zorzal Wines Climax Malbec                         89    
 2013    Zorzal Wines Eggo Blanc                              91  
 2013    Zorzal Wines Eggo Filosofo Pinot Noir          93    
 2012    Zorzal Wines Eggo Tinto                               94  
 2012    Zorzal Wines Field Blend                              92  
 2012    Zorzal Wines Gran Terroir Malbec                89
 2012    Zorzal Wines Gran Terroir Pinot Noir            92    
 2011    Zorzal Wines Piantao                                    91  
 2013    Zorzal Wines Terroir Unico Malbec               92    
 2012    Zorzal Wines Terroir Unico Pinot Noir           91  

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Pool party in Provence and Pleasurable Paris! Visiting France with Tommy Douglas High

Saskatoon’s Tommy Douglas Collegiate goes to France!  April 18 – 28, 2014

The Easter holiday was in late April this year, so even better to enjoy nice weather in sunny Provence, the destination of the 23 Immersion and Core French Students lead by their much loved, (and very organized) leader, Mme Lafreniere!  12 days in France for pool parties, beaches, train trips and catacombes, a wonderful mix that gave the group a real glimpse of modern and ancient France!

Colline du Chateau picnic in Nice
The group was greeted with some spring showers upon their arrival in Nice, but this soon blew away as the students dipped their feet in the Mediterranean, picnicked on the Colline du Chateau and shopped along the Zone Pietonne.  The Hotel Busby accommodated the whole group with friendly Provencal hospitality as the keeper of the key dutifully put the key in the ‘trou pour clefs’ at the front desk.  

On day two they were whisked off to the sand beaches of Cannes to jump collectively into the Mediterranean Sea as a group of German sailors watched on.  'Crazy Canadians!' ...they hollered out from their picnic on the beach.  Everyone in the group got wet, to some extremity or another!  Driver Herve loaned his bus as a "change room" for the girls…and then the guys... and they were soon off to sniff in the scents of France in Grasse, the capital of perfume, and for some a few headachesL.

La plage de Cannes
On top of the Chateau d'If
On the way to Avignon for a three night stay in the heart of Provence, the group made a stop in Marseille to pay a visit to the Chateau d’If, the former prison of the fictional character from Dumas’ The Count of Montecristo.  The guided tour was very detailed in French and the students learned just how terrible the conditions were in this bastion-turned prison…. You would not have wanted to be dropped into one of the worst cells called “les oubliettes”…  
... But it was a nice day for a boat ride and the ferry came into port amongst a regatta, just winding down, giving this group from the Prairies a good look at sea life!

Port of Marseille
Avignon is always about shopping, and even those who were not big spenders found something to purchase on the Boulevard de la Republique!  
Brasserie le Cintra
Dinners with some well chosen wine at the Cintra were enjoyed by the group and there was even time to take a nighttime walk around the Palais des Papes to see the grandeur of this ancient Pope's palace lit up from the shadows of the cobblestone streets where we stood.
Aux Baux de Provence
Poolside at the Mas St. Antoine
The group got to enjoy the best of the weekly Provencal markets at St. Remy de Provence, then sharing picnic provisions   amongst the group looking over the valley from the heights of les Baux de Provence.  




Next on this gorgeous sunny day??  A pool and pizza party at an old Mas, a traditional country home.  Marco...Polo!  Was heard for the rest of the afternoon as everyone, including Mme. Laf, jumped in the pool!


Gare de Lyon, Paris
They arrived at the Gare de Lyon in style after the 2 & 1/2 hour train ride to Paris on the TGV.  Average speed was calculated at 276 kms per hour!  A quick check-in to the hotel on the Grands Boulevards had the group take off to saunter along the Champs ElysĂ©es before enjoying dinner at the famous Boullion Chartier where almost everyone tried the escargots!  A rainy visit to the Chateau de Versailles reminded us of the splendour of this country, while the next few days in Paris were filled with metro, Bateau Mouche and elevator rides up the Tour Eiffel, long lunches in the Latin Quarter and even a last-minute visit to the Paris underground, the Catacombes.
Metro professionals!








Les Catacombes de Paris
Two and a half kilometres of bones from the overfilled cemeteries after the Revolution Française reminded us of the long history we were standing on...or under, rather.   

From the Cote d'Azur to Paris, this group took advantage of all the stops to practice... la Langue Française... bravo a tous... et MERCI Mme. Lafrenière!

Natascha


Thursday, May 22, 2014

Art Adventure in Morocco

Art adventure in morocco
At the beginning of May twelve creative women from Western Canada joined Calgary artist, Karin Richter on an Art Adventure to exotic Morocco, the country that travels through you! Leaving snowy Calgary for +30C temperatures was a bonus, but our discovery of colourful Morocco with its gentle, happy people warmed our hearts to the point where we were reluctant to leave!
During our 2 week visit our charming French/ Moroccan guide, Zac and our dutiful chauffeur Adboul were there with water, a helping hand and big smiles as they greeted us with “Salem Alicoom” and we responded, “Alicoom Salem”!!!  They delighted in sharing all the positive aspects of their country, Morocco.
We did travel through Morocco – starting with the modern metropolis of Rabat, home to  King Mohamed VI and the capital of Morocco. The ocean and seafood awaited us for the next few days as we hugged the coastline south to Essaouria where the ocean waves rocked us to sleep in the Riad Mimouna  www.riad-mimouna.com.  This former Portugeuse port with its blue fishing boats discharging the morning catch is a photographer’s delight!  Fresh fish, natural color pigments and argan oil were on our shopping list!  Chris soon learned that anything could be shipped home.
   

Reluctantly we left the ocean for busy Marrakech!  ! We were sad to have Diana leave us in Marrakech just as the group was starting to gel.   She had signed up for a textile tour  – not nearly as fun as ours of course!  First stop – the Place or FNAA!  As a group we wove among the snake charmers, storytellers, orange juice vendors, henna designers to temporary food stands that created a cloud of BBQ smoke over the whole FNAA.  Zac had us try some of the spicy tea before he led us into the souk for a taste of what we would see the next day!  We almost lost Pat in the souk as she had her wallet out for every vendor! Then she would consult Zac to see if she made a good buy!
Marrakech certainly deserves more than the 4 days we gave it – not enough shopping time!  We did venture out into the Ourika Valley for a day of sketching  in the berber villages, some of us indulged in a real Hamam, we took a caleche (horse and buggy ride) to the Majorelle Gardens for more sketching, we visited the lovely Bahia Palace and yes, got lost in the souk!!  How many times did Lucille, Michelle and Karin circle around the Cafe Arabe??? Our Riad Catalina in the middle of the medina was a safe haven for our return from the busy alleys lined with donkeys and scooters! www.riadcatalina.com   Nadia and her staff surprised us with a different tagine every evening!  Sharon was a true Moroccan! She had a tagine everyday!!!

 

Our trip into the desert was special – everyone in awe of the picturesque countryside, with the berbers carrying on their simple, serene daily life which, for us was like a step back to Biblical times. It was apparent that the Moroccans hold family life in great estime and everyone has a role to play in that family. Along the DRAA valley – a long oasis of date palms- we witnessed everyone’s contribution – young boys tending sheep, women with a load of straw on their back, old men riding donkeys loaded with sticks. Near Ouarzazate the Film city of the desert we visited the Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah which has been the backdrop for many desert films like “ Lawrence of Arabia”.  After yet another Moroccan salad lunch Zac herded us into the Kasbah village for a quick peek only to discover  that one of his brebis (sheep), Karen la grande was oblivious to his herding and decided to go her own way to capture that perfect photo! Soon we were rounded up in our 17 passenger van with Abdoul for a short drive to Ouarzazate.


 

 The next day we continued our journey to Zagora the gateway to the desert where we relaxed in the oasis Riad Lamane for a couple of days to get used to the higher temperatures – now getting up to +35C.  www.riadlamane.com   The ceiling decorations in the dining room and the “tent” accommodations held us spellbound with the brilliant colours and tassels. More shopping for berber rugs and jewelry! We all bought a turban to tie on our heads during our dromedary ride and we assumed berber names for our stay in the desert! Now that was a challenge getting our tongues around some of them!!! Betty simply called herself “ J’ai oublie” until we reminded her that she was Naida.


 

Everyone’s comfort on the dromedary – or camel was not evident. Our chef  Karin Richter was happy that it was only 1.5 hours long!  She decided to ride side saddle to elevate some discomfort but her gate was a little wonky for the next few days!  Liela on the other had was so comfortable on the camel and so appreciative of the tranquility of the desert that she could have made the 52 day trek to Timbuctou no problem (macain mouchekill)! Our arrival at the Bivouac, a tent village amongst the desert dunes and tamaris trees was a scene out of Arabian Nights!  Sala and his team treated us to patisseries (much to Karin’s delight), a tagine meal (viande with dates) in the eating tent and musical drumming on the desert floor.  Zac shook up the sand by inviting everyone up to dance! The full moon kept us all awake – not to mention the chorus of snores resounding from the tents. Some of us chose to sleep outside under the stars.
Another dromedary excursion to see the sunrise was enjoyed by all who managed to mount up again, then some zen time to sketch our magical setting before heading back to reality.  To shake off the desert sand the Riad Lamane in Zagora welcomed us for a dip in the pool and lunch in an air conditionned salon.  We headed back up the Draa Valley lined with date trees, then over the volcanic pass to Ouarzazate to relax and reflect on our desert experience.  Repacking was in store for our free day in Ouarzazate, although we did manage to visit a lovely Kasbah in the center of town and sneak in another “shopping” trip to a broderie for some handwoven linens.
Early to bed for some of us as we had an early flight to Casablanca the next day. Abdoul had driven the road from Ouarzazate to Casablanca the day before so we were happy to have him pick us up at the airport to visit the Hassen II Mosque and escort us to a beach cafe on the Atlantic Ocean for our final meal together. A special moment was held for Abdoul and Zac as we thanked them for looking after us so well in Morocco!
At the airport, it was like nobody wanted to leave!!! Hugs, kisses and proposals for marriage (hey Linda) were handed out as we reluctantly said goodbye!  Until next time Inchallah!

As Karin Mattiessen (Aicha) puts it, Morocco is a country that intrigues you, awakens the senses and nurtures your soul..... I will return again on day!

Shukran Chris for the photos!!

Saturday, October 19, 2013

Yoga and Wine on Italy's Amalfi Coast... with Essential Yoga Studio, Fernie, B.C.

Yoga & Wine on Italy's Amalfi Coast.....


View from Ravello, Amalfi Coast


Everyone said we were crazy to mix these two "opposite" activities on a retreat to Italy... But who knew?  Our 8 travelling yogis found that yoga and wine went VERY well together...   
Guru Francesca's lesson beside the Gelsomina Pool
The ladies at Vietri sul Mare

What a fun way to spend a week with other dynamic and like minded ladies from... Vancouver, Toronto, Fort MacMurray, Los Angeles, New York and our hometown of Fernie. 
 Francesca ter Poorten from Essential Yoga Studio in Fernie had been talking about doing a retreat together with VM Travel Adventures for some time.  Her focus, of course, was yoga, being a teacher of the practice for nearly 20 years.  I asked, "Can we add a wine component?" and the first ever yoga and wine tour planning had begun!   
This tour took us from Naples, under the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, on to a little wine farm called La Vecchia Quercia.  Anna was our host for a cooking lesson with a focus on ingredients from Campania - she shared with us the recipes from her heart. We also tasted some very nice wines from Montevetrano Vineyard, right on the property of our villa, this time hosted by Sylvia, female winemaker and also Anna's sister - all of this female entrepreneurship was a perfect reflection of our group of women travelling, eating, drinking, practicing yoga and revelling in Italian culture together!  We got to spend a day near Avellino where Roberto from Di Meo showed us his family estate from the 1700's and took us through his array of whites from the region, Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino. After a flambeed lunch of orichiette pasta, we met Taurasi's most famous wine character, Antonio Caggiano.  He was so enamoured with our group of ladies that he even, ehum, turned on his bottling line for us!
Cooking in Anna's Kitchen


We said goodbye to Anna after three days spent conquering the Montevetrano Casltle in the Campania hillside, and jumped in the van with our driver, Giancarlo, who escorted us on to our next adventure. In our little van, we navigated the narrow path they call a highway through the towns that dot the Amalfi Coast.  We shopped, hiked the winding staircases, toured the Cimbrone Gardens, ate caprese salad and pastries....  all before getting stuck behind two large and locked busses that were heading in opposite directions.  Giancarlo got out to help the drivers negotiate the tight corner, but instead decided to make a break for the space between them with OUR van!  Grazie Giancarlo!  In his own words, "Driving the Amalfi coast at an easy pace takes one hour.  Driving the Amalfi Coast when you're in a hurry..... takes one hour."


Mount Vesuvius sunrise over the harbour

 Next on the agenda was a three night stay in Anacapri, the more tranquil side of the Isle of Capri, that had long been inhabited by emperors, prisoners, poets and currently, the super-rich.  At the Villa Ceselle we enjoyed morning yoga practices on the terrace and in the gardens while Francesca gave us 1 on 1 time to perfect our poses.  During the day we made our way around the island, first by boat where we dipped into the caves that await under the rocky precipices of the island.  Our boat captain, Fernando was VERY thankful to us for boarding his comfy boat that day, while we jumped off for a swim, jumped back on for sunbathing... and he was not surprised when we decided to swim in the mysteriously blue waters of the famous Blue Grotto.  I could not believe our luck when we swam through the small rocky entrance, just a few of us, into the prohibited cave that is lit from underneath by the sun hitting the azure water of the Tyrrhenian sea.
Karen and Francesca lounging on our private boat
The Grotto of Love with Mieke



Sarah likes the Taurasi wines
 We felt like queens while being escorted around the island in convertible taxis.  We took time to lunch, shop, get lost and found again... some of us took the Monte Solaro Chairlift to the top of the island for a view of the whole bay of Naples.  The weather was on our side, right up until our final meal outdoors in the Anacapri square where we shared a diverse array of antipastas, seafood and pasta dishes, not to mention a few bottles of Taurasi Mastrobernadino, 2006 offered to us by Paolo da Franco.  Again, we yoga gals received special treatment... guitar serenades, feather boa gifts and the nice prosecco that kicked off the best, however final, meal of the tour at Melos Osteria della Musica.

Tracey in the Castell del Ovo
Next thing we knew, it was time to board the 'aliscafo' hydrofoil back to Sorrento for some shopping and a stop at the Pizza University, the home of the best pizza Napolitana.  On to Naples where some of us went to the museum, and others got a city tour and coffees offered by Giancarlo.  Despite the stormy day, the pink sunset came out to say goodbye to us as we climbed to the top of the Castell del Ovo above the port. A stunning end to a stunning week!

Ciao bellas, and thanks for sharing your holiday with us.  See you next time for our next yoga and wine adventure!!

Life is too short NOT to have this much fun!
xx Natascha

Friday, October 11, 2013

Learning Italian at the Beach!

Hello fellow travellers! 

Since we are travelling to Italy with our VM Travel Friends so much lately, I finally decided that it was time, once and for all, to focus on learning Italian.  Where better to do it than in Bella Italia!! 

Versilia is the region in northern Tuscany where the beaches reign supreme!  The strip of sand is lined with 'bagno' after 'bagno', private beaches that rent umbrellas, and will sell you a cold "Aperol Spritz" on a hot day!  Luckily my school, the Centro Giacomo Puccini Institute gave us a lovely spot at the 'Bagno Italia' in order to sunbathe and do our homework in the afternoons.  

The fishing village of Viagreggio is flanked by two pine forests and cut through the middle by a canal - one fit for schooners and trawlers, but a bit too skinny for the big yachts to get through.  I rented a beautifully decorated, lofted apartment with an Italian family - who spoke to me only in Italian. This was great practice, although I frequently ended up at home with my brain full of new Italian words, exclaiming, "Sono a la fruta!" or 'I'm at the fruit' - the last course of a big dinner where you just can't jam any more learning in for the day!  Elisabetta and Carlo gave me a bike to get to school and I found myself weaving through oncoming traffic and dodging market goers, just like the locals!


Classes began at 9am with Grammar lessons, then we had a conversation class, where we met many friends from all over the world.  The school has a reputation, and foreign students from Switzerland, Germany, USA, France and even Lichtenstein came to get their credentials in Italian language.  My private language tutor, Alessandra was wonderful, and since I was doing an intensive wine, food and tourism course, she even took me to her favourite restaurant in Pisa - and I got to invite some fellow Canadian students and friends! The food was meraviglioso, all local products from Pisa paired with Vini Lucchesi  - wines from Lucca - delicious!


We were so lucky to be situated only a short train ride from Pisa, Lucca, Cinque Terre so we took advantage and bopped around the countryside on the notoriously late Italian trains.  I was told by a local octopus fisherman who was also on the train, that he no longer wears a watch because nothing in Italy starts on time. So very true.

With a Swiss friend we climbed the Torre Guingi in Lucca to hang out amongst the 7 trees on top, then we had a wine in the amphiteatro antico and truffle pasta at the local Osteria Baralla, serving up fresh porcini mushrooms and hand made pastas since 1860!  Priska showed me the nonchalant exhilaration of getting lost in the narrow cobbled streets, then finding our way again, usually by asking directions from local cute Italians... we may have gotten carried away, and had to take the midnight train home!
 
Once cannot live on the northern Italian coast without visiting the Cinque Terre.  From Viareggio it was an hour train ride to the end town of Monterrosso, the one with the best beaches!  From there we hiked the cliffside path to Vernazza along the rocky steps and over the bridges, all with stunning views!  A well deserved lunch which included the regions specialty... pesto, was washed down by a Nastro Azzuro.  The sea was calling our names so Robin and I boarded a boat to Manarolo and we sailed with the wind in our hair!!  As the sun was setting we had a sundowner prosecco before jumping on the train back to our beach town home.

I am pleased to say that my study abroad was successful.. ho imparato tantissimo! I am already planning a trip back to further my Italian language experience.  I can't wait to practice while on the next adventure, Yoga and Wine on the Amalfi Coast! 
See you soon on our next adventure together... in Italia!  Natascha xx






Thursday, October 10, 2013

SKETCHING THE FAIRYTALE!
This Fall a group of adventuresome artists from Saskatchewan joined instructor Cecelia Jurgens and Corinne of VM Travel Adventures on a Sketchbook Workshop Tour of Europe’s best “fairytale” countries. The Wiechmann Hotel in Amsterdam situated on a corner of one of the 9 little streets gave us lots of sketching opportunities: crooked houses that looked like they were going to topple into the canal, bicycles and geraniums that decorated the bridges.  Of course our day in the countryside to visit the windmills at Zaanse Schans and taste some cheese in Volendam gave a different perspective to this flat country called the Netherlands, most of it below sea level.  The Van Gogh museum was a delight as we had a close up look at his Sunflowers and Apple blossoms. Some shopping time too as we dared to be pedestrians on the streets where most Dutch were on bikes with children and groceries as their cargo.

The fast train transported us to Frankfurt, then Baden Baden and finally Offenburg in the Black Forest where we unpacked for a whole week in the Stadt Hotel. The village of Gengenbach is 1280 years old! Yes, lots of history here including the statue of a knight from 1571 in the town market square.  Robert, our bus driver spent the first 5 days confusing us as to which country we were in. With the Alsace, France being just across the Rhine we spent a few glorious, sunny days painting the half timbered houses and vineyards of this unique region that has been handed off between France and Germany many times over the years. This accounts for its unique culture and interesting food. We enjoyed a lovely French meal in Mittelbergheim, a restaurant that Corinne knew of from her days as a teacher in Lahr. A somber moment was at the Studhof Nazi Concentration Camp in the Vosges Mountains, but the mood was soon lifted with an impromptu stop at a winery in Ottrott. 

Our days in Germany were sunny and warm as we painted the massive Black Forest Houses that had family, beast and fodder all under one roof. The Gutach Open Air Museum was a tranquil setting for sketching. This was followed by a meal of freshly caught trout at the Gasthof Kreuz in Prinzbach. Yes, for some the heads and tail had to be removed before it was consumed.  Eight of us had the energy to climb to the top of the 13th century Geroldsech castle ruins for more sketching. Our final day was a drive through the Black Forest to stop for Black Forest cake and yes, more shopping before visiting Triberg Falls and Villigen. It was a holiday in Germany on this day and thus the stores in Villigen were closed. This probably saved a few overweight charges for the return trip home.

With 6 sketching sessions and 2 critiques, Cecelia managed to encourage us all on our journey to become artists!  Danke schoen!

Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Vineyards & Vistas on Italy's Amalfi Coast

There is no coastline more spectacular than Italy's Amalfi Coast. It has everything: breathtaking  precipices, villas and restaurants built out of the rock cliffs, a cantilevered, sinuous road and of course terraced lemon groves and " limoncello"!  This May I had the privilege of sharing this breathtaking scenery with the Birch family and friends who were celebrating , well should I say, some 'significant' birthdays.  Dan and Arlene Birch, former guests on a wine tour of South America decided to celebrate the occasions with a Vineyards and Vistas Tour of Italy.



Wine  was definitely not in short supply - the DOC region of Campania was within driving distance  - thankfully we had Giovanni of Italy Limousine to escort us safely from one winery to the other. Taurasi is the hilltop village which gives its name to this DOC wine made principally from the Aglianico grape (try to pronounce that will you!).  Antonio of Cantina Caggiano is known for his photographs as well as his for his unique wine cave and his ownTaurasi wine he presented to Pope John Paul II!  Another special visit was will Roberto of Di Meo - lovely property and outstanding wines! Roberto is always dreaming up new grape products, his recent being a perfume for the person or the room!  Fabuloso!  We happened upon Cantina aperto Sunday where participating wineries open their doors on the last Sunday in May to the public for special activities, tours and tastings. Casa di Baal is a small family run winery and olive oil farm.  We met the whole family - tasted their wines in the olive grove and delighted in their local cuisine - what were those? deep fried pizzas? 
Yes, we literally stocked up on enough wine to keep us fluid for the vistas part of the tour!  Our final and very special tasting was at the Montevetrano Winery with Silvia who is the genius behind this beautiful wine, a simple Bordeaux style with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and  the region's Aglianico (yes that word again).  She only makes one wine, and thus we were able to do a vertical comparison! What a treat to hear her story!

I have known Anna from La Vecchia Quercia (the old oak) since 2003 and visiting her property in the hills above Salerno is a peaceful experience. Anna has such a gentle manner as she explains her passion for the natural products she uses from the countryside where she grew up.  Breakfast was a culinary delight of freshly made jams, jellies and juices from the most unsuspecting fruits and vegetables, all accompanied by unpasteurized, scrumptious cheeses from the area. One night for dinner Anna had everyone rolling out real Italian ravioli pasta! MMMM Regale! 

This region of Italy near Paestum, the incredible Greek and Roman Archeological site is also known for Bufalo Mozzarella cheese as they have as many water buffalo as cattle in Alberta, okay maybe I am exaggerating a bit. Actually we didn't see that many buffalo but  we could certainly smell them and every second shop was selling fresh buffalo cheese!  We had a tour and a hot cheese tasting at the Rivabianca factory. No it was not raclette but warm freshy made mozzarella cheese right out the hands of the Mozzas, the strong men mixing, then pinching off just the right size of Mozzarella balls 50 grams, 250 grams - their well trained hands knew exactly how much to pinch off!

Stocked up on food and wine, it was time to get some exercise on the Amalfi Coast - some chose to walk  from shop to shop - yes that is called exercise! Some chose to enjoy a bottle of wine on the cafĂ© terraces (this too, weightlifting for the arm) and others braved a dip in the cool Mediterranean Sea after buying a souvenir beach towel from Amalfi, of course.  It took us all day to travel the 100km of this coastline and thanks to Giovanni we made it to the Capri ferry in time for the evening sail, everyone in one piece and no one car sick. Grazie mille Giovanni.  We boarded the ship just as all the day passengers were disembarking. This is the key to really enjoying the Isle of Capri - go when all the tourists are coming back, plan to stay in Annacapri, the small town on the highest peak where all the locals live and don't give the famous town of Capri much notice. After all, it is just name brand stores and high prices - there is much more to see as we discovered on our private boat trip around the Island. Incredible rock walls! The weather was not ideal on this tour (about 10C below normal) but somehow when we needed the sun it shone for us as it did on this voyage and the pizza/pasta birthday lunch which followed. Of course we had a few bottles of wine - we had a birthday to celebrate!  Other delights during our 2 day stay in Annacapri, a delightful luncheon at the Gelsomina restaurant and yes, some brave souls could not resist the pool overlooking the precipice!
Another fabulous discovery was the Villa San Michele that a Swedish doctor, Axel Munthe built on top of the Tiberius ruins and incorporated many of the artifacts in his villa and garden. A real delight to see. Some of us too, took the chairlift (1950's era) to the highest point on the Isle to see all of Naples, Vesuvius, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast down to Paestum laid out at our feet!
Weren't we smart to take the morning ferry back to Sorrento - empty - only to see the hoards of tourists boarding for their one day , not too in depth visit to this mysterious island that intrigued everyone from Roman generals to British playwrites.
One cannot bypass Sorrento - the narrow streets of the old town are a shopping delight. Famous for inlaid music boxes and limoncello, we found just that extra inch of space in our luggage to accommodate our new purchases.  Giovanni delivered us to the not so appealing city of Naples with a little stop at Pizza a Metro - yes they actually take pizza orders by the meter with your choice of toppings!
The port hotel/restaurant called Hotel Trans Atlantico made our stay in Naples a real pleasure. They only have 8 rooms and most of them look over Mt Vesuvius and the luxurious yachts lined up along the restaurant dock. Lots of comings and goings to keep one entertained all day and all night - even fireworks ! Yes, Dan and Arlene, there really were fireworks - loud and colourful ones!  A visit to the Archeological Museum with our informative guide, Nicolas complimented our understanding of Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii on that fateful day back in 72 AD. 
Our farewells were said at lunch on the restaurant terrace. Everyone going back to our routines in Canada or the US only to dream of the warm Italian hospitality and yes, those wonderful wines!!!