Tessekur Ederim, Turkey.
We give thanks to this wonderful exotic exciting country that we have
just travelled through, October of 2019. Istanbul has it’s treasures, more on
that later but we decided to discover ancient Anatolia and follow the footsteps
of the Lycians.
Who were
the Lycians you might ask? They were the
ingenious tomb carvers, the ancient city builders before the Romans, the
population who held fast against invasion of those Romans, sometimes succumbing
to suicide or burning their own cities instead of conceding defeat. The Lycian trail took us past columned rock
tombs carved high in the cliffs and sarcophagi purposefully placed to honour
their dead in perfect position to spend all of eternity. Fethiye to Antalya was a coastal highway
dotted with azure waters, the clearest in the Mediterranean, and quaint
Cliffside towns to spend every magical evening under lamp-lit terraces.
After
flying Istanbul to Dalaman, our modest hotel was on Calis beach in Fethiye. Isabelle arrived
in a deluge of water, but that was all the rain we got in our 10 day adventure. It was a memorable storm for sure, but soon
we were enjoying rainbows and beach sunsets offered along this bay.
In Fethiye
there is much to do, the Blue Lagoon at Oludeniz beach welcomed us alongside
pirates, parrots and pirate ships. That
afternoon we kicked up the adventure scale with a jump off of a 2000 m high
mountain, organized by Gravity Paragliding.
Thrilling indeed, G forces pulled with screams of delight as we three
hurtled toward the beach and peninsula – some of the best views we had… and the
landing was perfect, easy, just like a bird.
Would I take up flying? I think
so.
A visit to
KayaKoy ghost town was eerie, but interesting.
The population “exchange” of 1923 had Greek inhabitants’ wells poisoned
so were forced to desert their homes.
Turks did not claim the city for their own so it remains rubble to this
day.
Turtles on
mountaintops seemed to be everywhere. We
followed the google map from St. Nicholas island to Help Beach, a zen like
beach bar with cool décor, like old cars and paintbrushes for sandy feet. But
the road leading to Help was anything but Zen, our little rental car went up
and over the mountain on a rocky road while turtles took to smashing each
other, either fighting or mating, we’re not 100% sure.
We stopped
in at the ruins of Xanthos, Letoon and Patara with a late lunch at the sandy
beach. The ruins offered something
different at each most with well preserved theatres and agoras sitting atop
tombs and byzantine churches. So much
history and occupation of this area, and it’s no wonder since the Turkish
Riviera is stunning at every turn.
One night
in Kalkan had us cosied up amongst he hillside houses at the Turkuaz
Pensyion. Sukran and Hassan have
decorated down to the last detail and the terrace breakfast overlooking the
marina was tasty. It is nice to have tomatoes, cheese, eggs and cucumber for
breakfast – you get your salad in first thing so you can enjoy a glass of rose
or red Okuzguzu in the evening at sunset. We ate fish and drank Raki, sitting
on the floor just enjoying the calm starlit evening.
Kas was our
next stop on the coastline after a magical morning spent at Kaputas beach. A Cliffside staircase gave access to the blue
water and sandy beach. At Kas we rented
an apartment with sunset view and set our sights to Greece, the island of Meis
(TR) or Kastellorizo (GR) was only 3 kms away.
Passports in hand we took the express boat since we had had a Raki with
the capitain only the night before. We
had a splash of Greece for the day, much to our delight we were offered free
wine in order to watch the amazing Loggerhead turtles play with each other in
the bay. A quick boat ride to the Blue
Cave with a tight squeeze through the rock opening, and pretty soon we were
diving off the boat into the bright blue water inside the cave. Amazing!
Our next
adventure took us around the peninsula to discover the sunken city at Kekova
with Captain Mehmet at the helm of his Gulet Boat. He showed us Aqvarium bay by snorkel and he
even jumped in with us for a dip!
Earthquakes have caused the Lycian and Roman Ruins to sink into the sea
and you can easily snorkel over the area marked by a Byzantian Church once upon
a time.
Just when
we thought that it couldn’t get any more beautiful we crossed the peninsula to
join a steep road leading down into the jungle.
Canada House Bungalows was our next accommodation just 750 m from Cirali
beach, Olympos Ruins and the Fumiroles of Chimera. A rickety road in the dark was a bit of a
scramble but we were rewarded with 15 odd warm flames coming out of the
rocks. People were roasting marshmallows
on the flames said to be the breath of the Chimera, defeated and buried alive 7
stories into the rock cliff by Zeus.
The ancient
city of Olympos was built on a creekbed canyon and was once a powerful port of
the Lycians. The town of Cirali was so
charming with treehouse like restaurants, lanterns hanging in trees. Sea bass, lahmacun and all of the Turksish
treats were available to eat. It is said
that this canyon offers a peaceful place to relax and wash off the stress of
the whole year.
The old
city of Antalya was picturesque and peaceful with parks and gardens and the
Duden waterfalls.
Back in
Istanbul we were welcomed by our dear friends at the Best Point Hotel is Sultanahmet. We had a Turkish Hammam bathroom which we
took advantage of, and the buffet breakfast on the rooftop has you gazing up at
the Blue Mosque, not 2 blocks away. So
well situated we revisited our past footsteps at the Hagia Sophia, the Sultan’s
tombs and the Basilica Cisterns. Washing
away the travels, a massage and Hammam at Cemberlitas 1598 was a relaxing way
to end our time here.
We came
away with a feeling that we wanted more since Turkey is a safe, modern,
organized and zen-like country. The people, charming, witty and welcoming. There is no theft, and we never felt hassled
or in danger, quite the opposite with so many offers from locals to facilitate
our adventures.