Tango and Polo in Argentina

I just couldn't resist escaping dreary November in Canada to the sunny warm climate of Argentina! This year, as every year since 2004 I have extended my summer and shortened my winter by taking advantage of the reverse seasons in South America. This is the first year I have come without clients, not that I didn't try my best to invite wine lovers or tango dancers to join me!

My vacation started in the small town of San Antonio de Areco - gaucho capital of Argentina! Every year around the 10th of November Tradition Days celebrate the life of the gaucho or the Argentina cowboy. Folklore Dances, Rodeo and Strings of horses bring thousands of people to this quaint town dating back to the mid 1700's. The strings of horses is a gaucho tradition where the cowboy taught their replacement horses in the pampas to follow a cow bell on a mare just from the sound. This arose from the need to keep the horses together without a tether. Today 36 strings of horses or Tropillas compete to stay in their formation in a space the size of a football field. 4 of the top strings are selected and the gaucho must demostrate that his horses are tame to the judge. Once a horse is selected by the judge the gaucho has to separate it from the rest of the string and then bridle it. These strings along with other gauchos from around the countryside participate in the town parade. Asados (BBQ) and dancing go on to the wee hours of the morning!

Polo

My love of horses and riding found me on a polo ranch about 7 km from the town. Initially I enjoyed riding these wonderful ponies (a cross between thoroughbred and the Argentina quarterhorse) through the pampas, but soon Pato, the owner of the 56 horse ranch convinced me to try Polo stick and ball. Soon my horse Bonita was fitted with leg guards and 4 reins and I will a helmut and a polo mallet and off we went to the polo field. Now one might think, as I did that hitting a ball the size of a baseball from atop a horse might be close to impossible, but with careful instruction from Pato to stand up in the stirrups and twist my torso with the mallet as an extension of my arm I was able to have contact with ball. Same rule applies in golf or any sport - keep your eye on the ball! Of course a smart horse like Bonita who moved her head to the side everytime she new I had a bad swing or who immediately doubled back when she knew I missed the ball or better yet, kicked it forward so I could make another swing made my experience with polo less frustrating than any experience I had with golf! Soon I was loping the horse and hitting the ball a fair distance. I don't intend on graduating to a level of playing in a polo match or chucker, but it is thrilling to know that I can participate on more than a spectator level in this sport of kings!

Tango

I love small , quaint, antique towns so it was difficult to board the bus or collectivo for the big city of Buenos Aires - population 16 million! Buenos Aires or Good Winds is home to tango - another one of my passions. I have be learning the tango with my good friend Trinidad since 2004 when we met on the streets of colourful La Boca where she was dancing with her partner. Trini soon taught me the basics and found me a lovely tango taxi (an escort I pay to take me to the tango halls). Every year I book lessons with Trini and dates with Juan Carlos so I can get the most out of my time on the milonga or tango floor. Again, I would never have imagined being able to close my eyes and follow the lead of an Argentine tanguero. I am getting so good at waiting and following (something unnatural for a person of my character) that I am able to have success dancing with the old tangeros who have been dancing all their lives. Some of them rated me a 9 out of 10 - quite a compliment! My favourite is Juan Carlos though, very comfortable to dance the 3 styles - traditional tango, tango waltz and milonga (a 6 step fox trot).

For the first time since I started Voyages Millefleurs Travel in 2000 I have taken the time to live my passions and enjoy my many friends in South America. Right now I am getting to know the family of my daughter's lovely boyfriend (novio) in Santiago, Chile but will soon leave them to their summer weather and asados to return to my good friends in Canada for a real Christmas with white snow!

Happy travels to all and to all a good night! Corinne in Santiago, Chile

Renoir in Cagnes sur Mer

Yes, I have to pinch myself every morning that I awake to perfect weather in Nice, France. Taking a walk to the local boulangerie for fresh croissants and taking a dip in the pool before enjoying my espresso looking out over the Mediterranean Sea hardly seems like work at all!


Actually I am taking care of this hilltop villa for some friends of mind while they are on a cruise and as long as the dog is alive along with their plants, I will feel like I have earned my keep!




The other day I dared to leave this little piece of paradise http://www.odyssee-nice.com/ to visit Renoir's Museum in Cagnes sur Mer (just down the autoroute a few " sorties"). I had been there in the spring while conducting my annual tour along the Impressionist Path and this museum set amongst ancient olive trees was a recent find - so peaceful and serene that it was well worth another visit. Renoir moved to Les Collettes partly because he was in love with Cagnes sur Mer, the Montmartre of Provence and partly to save this olive grove which was destined to be turned into carnation fields. Thanks to Renoir, these majestic knarled trees overlook the Cotes d' Azur to this day. I roamed around the house that his wife Aline had built to receive there many guests, visited his studio to see his wheelchair and his palette and took another peaceful stroll through the olive groves my camera unable to resist the view.


It takes alot more courage to visit a place on ones own. In the spring I had Jane with me to help with signs,etc. and this time I wanted to see what was so special about Cagnes-sur-Mer from the Medieval village at the very top of the hill. Yes, Medieval village does mean little or no parking and as I had my friends 4 x 4 (not small) I was very deliberate in finding the perfect parking spot - in the shade, lots of space and not on a steep hill! Impossible you say??? With a little patience one opened up for me very close to the Place du Chateau!!! Quelle chance! Thus I was able to enjoy my lovely salad Avocat - Crevettes and a small glass of rose under the platane trees on a terrace overlooking the countryside. Yes, it was just as beautiful as you could imagine!
I spotted a cemetery from there and wondered if this is where Renoir was buried???? So my inquiry with the server had me hopping around the Place du Chateau talking to at least 10 people who thought they knew where he was buried, including the curator of the museum who assured me that he was buried in Essoyes in Champagne! One of the hotel keepers suggested I wait and talk to Renoir's grandson who plays petanque"boules" in the square every evening. The thought almost warranted another few glasses of wine to wait until the heat of the day disappeared and the petanquers came out to play. But alas, the autoroute back to Nice Nord and a cool rooftop swimming pool won out and I returned safely back to the villa - no dints in the 4x4! Whew!
I wonder what will happen tomorrow??? Maggie Muggins!

Along the Impressionist Path

The Impressionist Art Tour of France is a tour that Voyages Millefleurs offers every spring. The abundance of poppies in Provence just makes it the right time of the year to follow the footsteps of these renegade artists to discover what moved them to paint " en Plein Aire" - (outdoors) when the salons of the 1800's were only accepting works of art the " followed the rules". However, Mte. Ste. Victoire near Aix-en-Provence evoked sensations in Cezanne to paint it over 80 times and the brilliant sunshine in Provence enduced flaming colours in Van Gogh's palette.

We start our tour in Cagnes-sur- Mer just north of Nice. Actually Jane from California arrived a day early and I invited her to research Renoir's studio with me. After many wrong turns (just never sure which way those brown signs are pointing) we found this oasis of olive trees that Renoir spent his last years protecting. Still today one can enjoy the tranquility of this park surrounding his villa and know that his efforts were not in vein. His house and studio stand untouched from modernity - just as if he and his family still inhabited this sacred place. This was a delightful find for Jane and I and we talked about it for days after.

After the other two guests arrived we were off to Mont Ste. Victoire and Cezanne's studio. A very similar experience to see where this famous artist spent his final years painting his mountain over 80 times. Many of the objects he painted were still present in the studio and we had fun finding them in the prints of this paintings on display. His painting smock hung in the corner - imagine having the chance to touch it - not that we did! We drove along the path that he walked every day to the tour where he painted Mont Ste. Victoire. It was a long way and it was hard for us to imagine him making the trek and back every day!

South of Avignon is Van Gogh country. Although he only spend 18 months in Provence he produced over 300 works of art. Some of them were given to farmers in exchange for eggs and they often ended up to be doors on the chicken coops. Imagine - now these same painting sell for millions of dollars. I am always impressed with the Van Gogh Foundation and the education they provide for visitors. Tableaux of his paintings are appropriately placed in the spots where he painted them so you see what he saw and you read what he thought at the time of the painting. I have searched a long time for the actualy billard table used in this tableau " Les billiards" and finally found in upstairs in the Cafe Van Gogh - just where it was when he painted it.
A special place to really feel Van Gogh is St Paul Maussole just outside of St. Remy de Provence. Here he spent some of this most prolific days in an assylum - irises, poppies, olive trees , cypress trees! The Foundation has created a lovely tribute to Van Gogh in this setting which still uses Art Therapy to treat the mentally unstable residents.

After a week of enjoying a Provencale sky and the fields of poppies we took the fast train to Paris. The Musee D' Orsay (arrive early and go to the back of the converted train station and to the third floor to get a close up view of the works of all the impressionist artists) , the Musee Marmottan, a small Parisien manor dedicated to Monet with other impressionist too, the Orangerie - new home to Monet's huge Water Lilies, but a nice surprise to see the works of many well known impressionist artist in the basement - Renoir, Degas,etc.

Of course we had make the 1 hour excursion to Monet's Gardens at Giverny - flowers in abundance. I love taking some time to do some sketching in this tranquil environment. This time a little school boy was convinced that I was Monet's wife - he saw me sketching - and he wanted to buy my sketch for 7 euros (that's all he had)! Now isn't that a laugh! In the countryside too is Auvers-sur-Oise where Van Gogh is buried next to his brother Theo. We paid our respects and stopped at the Blue Cathedral that he painted in one of his final days. It was here that he shot himself and died a couple of days later. The Maison Van Gogh one the main street where he ldied is open to visitors. The Chateau d' Auvers is a restored 19th century castle which presents a Voyage du Temps. As you walk through this presentation you come to understand the lives of the impressionists, what they painted and what inspired them. A trip to the countryside is a must, but take time to enjoy the Butte Montmartre in Paris where they met to inspire each other.

Voyages Millefleurs offers this tour every year. I always learn something new! Hope you will join me sometime. I invite you! Corinne

Travels with Corinne in France

Greetings to Voyages Millefleurs guests!

I hope that all of you are finally enjoying some lovely spring weather in Canada! I was lucky with the weather in Europe this year - very sunny and +30. I am now back in Fernie planning some more wonderful adventures!

http://www.odyssee-nice.com/ I will be managing this lovely property in Nice, France from Aug. 26-Sept. 10, 2009. Check it out - a little bit of PARADISE! Francois & Jerome have two modern apartments in this reconstructed Italian villa on a hilltop in Nice. Easy access to travel in the countryside or Nice itself. 110 Euros per apartment per night OR 730 Euros for the week. Come and join me! 1 877 423 5007

http://www.massaintantoine.com/ Some of might know this property formally run by Pierre and Ian. Two kiwis have taken over the property and have turned the garden and poolside into a lovely respite. I will be staying here in the little Cabanon for two weeks - Sept. 21 - Oct. 2, 2009 and will be offering beginning French classes - 3 hours a day, plus lots of practice as we visit the local markets and villages. Contact Keryn if you are interested in a stay (very reasonable prices) and me if you are interested in some fun French lessons! 1 877 423 5007

I would love to know where you have been travelling lately.

info@customwinetours.com

Remember travel is your most secure investment that will only appreciate in value!

Happy Trails to you! Corinne

Voyages Millefleurs Travel Inc. http://www.customwinetours.com/

Canadian Students in Europe for the First Time, Easter Break 2009

This past Easter break, three schools of Canadian students took off to discover France and Italy. Voyages Millefleurs, with all of our guides in tow spent ten days in Europe with students, chaperones and teachers. Each year at this time we attempt to make independent travellers out of Saskatchewan students and teach them how things work in Europe... we learned the metro in Paris, the high speed train across France and the canals and winding streets in Venice!

Leah Fornwald, our most highly organized guide and a high school teacher herself toured northern France and Paris with her group from Outlook High School. Their goal was to learn about Canadian history with a close-up look at the Beaches of Normandy and the old residence of the explorer, Jaques Cartier.

Ryan Radchenko, my brother, tears himself away from skiing to help out with the family business as he has been the guide for Melfort High School for the last three tours. His humour and laissez-faire attitude makes it seem easy to take as many trains, planes, buses and metros as these students were touring both France and Italy. Ryan is a good role model for students learning to travel on their own as he has had many experiences in the Baltic states and in Eastern and Western Europe.

Of course our fearless leader, Corinne Thomson was there to aid in our adventures and co-ordinate everything with the student´s best interests at heart. One year of planning came into fruition and all three tours went off without a hitch. Corinne is currently still in Europe conducting a wine tour in the Alsace and Burgundy and later an Impressionist Art tour through Provence.


I had the pleasure of guiding for the students from Warman High School, with their teachers & chaperones Deanna, Laird and Matthew. We were all proud of the students for practicing their french, becoming independent in the metro in Paris and trying a taste of everything on the menu... I am sure that a few of the brave ones ate duck not once, but twice!


We started our holiday in Nice on the Cote d´Azur where we had great weather - alas we spent some time on the beach and in the markets before climbing up to the Chateau de la Colline for an amazing picnic. In the afternoon we took in the riches of Monte Carlo and their fancy cars!


Nearby trips included visits to Grasse, where flowers abound and perfume is made, with a stop at the hilltop artist town of St. Paul de Vence - a favourite among many students. A must was to see the hand prints of the European and Hollywood stars in Cannes, the site of the famous film festival and known for it´s sandy beaches.


Next we were off to Provence with a side trip to Arles where the spring Feria was in full swing! We got a taste of the Spanish influence as the students tried Paella, a favourite of teacher Deanna from her past travels in the region. We studied some impressionist art and saw the many Roman ruins before heading off to our next stop, Avignon. In this papal town we climbed the fortified walls up to the garden of the Pope´s Palace. Illuminated at night, this town is fantastic and we managed to factor in some free time for exploring and a nice meal at the restaurant of their choice. Closeby Avignon we visited the market at St. Remy de Provence and the town perched on the bauxite cliffs called Les Baux de Provence. We had a chance to take in the grandeur of another well known Roman ruin in the region, the Pont du Gard. Some scrambled up the side embankments just to see how in ancient times, water was channeled across this specially designed bridge.


Our next leg took us on the TGV, dashing across the French landscape at 250kms/hr! We arrived in Paris in three hours flat and without hesitation jumped on the metro to get to the hotel. I am so proud of these travellers...everyone looked out for each other, helped with (broken!) luggage and braved the many stair-laden metro tunnels! Bravo! (... and thanks for the help with [my] broken luggage, Laird!)


In Paris we took advantage of the city of lights by taking a boat ride on the Seine River and we scaled the Eiffel Tower up to the third floor. The evenings were well spent sightseeing just as the days were filled with activity - more stairs up the Arc de Triomphe and some shopping on the Champs Elysées... from the Louvre to Père Lachaise Cemetery, the Latin Quarter near Notre Dame Cathedral and the Basilica at Sacre Coeur de Montmartre. We even got a glimpse of the Moulin Rouge situated in the red-light district! Hey, an independent traveller is not always going to end up in the most delightful of areas, now are they?

I have to say that every student was a pleasure to get to know. I am sure I can say the same for all of our guides and our ¨Chief¨ Corinne. Thanks to chaperones & teachers for your organization during the year and your vigilance while on tour. For us guides it is a fun time of year and it is very rewarding to see the faces brighten on these young people when they discover something that is truly unique and European.

I hope you keep following our adventure stories with the newly created VM Elite Viajes (Santiago de Chile) and Voyages Millefleurs Travel Inc. ¨Your Window on the World of Wine... and the Student´s First Step towards Independent Travel.¨

www.customwinetours.com
www.vmelite.com

Natascha Radchenko

Wine and Waterfalls Womens Tour of South America

Imagine six ladies setting out on a whirlwind adventure of Brazil, Argentina and Chile on the Wine and Waterfalls tour with Voyages Millefleurs Travel Inc. What an adventure! As I remember this trip I am again fascinated with the diverse itinerary... we included the sub tropical rainforest, some 3000 horses in a small town at one time... and some great wine tasting, of course!
We ladies joined in a small travel group through a cooperation of Women With Wings with Voyages Millefleurs Travel Inc. We were a diverse group but we all meshed well and brought new perspectives to our travel experiences. We had some times where the laughter never ceased and other times when we were quiet in awe of the amazing sights we saw before us.
After we finally obtained the correct visas and paperwork in our passports for we Canadians to enter Brazil, we were off to Sao Paulo. We chose a couple of days in this huge city and practiced our Portuguese and ate real Brazilian churrasceria BBQ. The food was amazing and the people friendly; the best was when we were handed off from one person to the next in their attempt to help us get to the downtown area! Thanks to all of you, whomever you were! I can´t forget the local bus driver either, somehow we got our point across with the help of a few locals shouting directions!
Next we were off to Iguazu Falls, the UNESCO World Heritage site on the border of Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. As we had our Brazil Visas we were able to see the other half of the falls which we had not experienced before. We had a perfect day of sun after it had been raining, which brought out all sorts of monitor lizards and iguanas, catching some rays just as we tourists had intended! The toucans and the raccoon like coatis´ came out to say hello as well. That evening was spent around the pool with some Brazilian caipiriñas to cool off our sunburns!

The next day we spent on the Argentine side of the falls on the Gran Aventura circuit. This tour includes a jeep safari and a walk above and below the falls. The best part was the speed boat ride under, yes under the careening water! This was a highlight as we felt so alive by being in the thundering, cascading mist on the border of three countries. This really is a magical place but soon we were off for more adventures in Argentina.

We had a few days to explore the capital, Buenos Aires. We saw live tango in the streets in La Boca and met watched some dancers that we knew while having beer and empanadas... later they took us upstairs of the restaurant for a private tango lesson with our beautiful friend Trinidad and five ¨tango taxis¨, unforgettable! We topped off this tango themed day with a dinner and show at the ritzy upbeat Piazzola Tango Show downtown. Other highlights of Buenos Aires included shoe shopping on Avenida Santa Fe, getting massages and pedicures to go with our new shoes and visiting Eva Peron Duarte´s family plot in beautiful Recoleta Cemetery.

One hour north of Buenos Aires is a town called San Antonio de Areco, and here is where the national annual Tradition Day activities are held. Almost every Gaucho (Argentine cowboy) meets here once a year for the parades and horse drills that are everything ¨criollo¨or traditional. The town filled with some 3000 horses on the Saturday afternoon as the gauchos were showing off their different breeds or ¨strings of horses¨. We ate like queens at the asados or BBQs in the park and learned to dance the traditional way with the gauchos in full olden day suits and spurrs! For the rancher women in our group, these three days of Argentine history reminded us of the wide open spaces of the plains of Canada.

Although the wine flowed freely up to this moment in the trip, the next leg took us to Mendoza, Argentina for three days of wine touring in Malbec country. We stayed at a tranquil Parador del Angel while branching out to tour wineries just south of the city. We took a carriage ride in the vineyard at Bodega Tapiz and learned about traditional irrigation in the region, we learned how to make the staple food, empanadas, from fresh ingredients and we tasted some liquors at Tapaus, a new distillery with a modern concept. On a wim, we met some new friends at Mairena winery and discovered one of the best Bonardas in Mendoza! As our visit to Argentina came to a close we did some shopping for leather and souveneirs... next stop is Santiago, Chile!

One of the most memorable parts of this tour is the day trip across the second highest mountain range in the world, the Andes. We boarded our seats in the top front of the double decker bus for the approx. 360km, 7 hour trip up and over Los Libertadores pass. The views were breathtaking as we climbed up the valley flanked by purple mountains to catch a glimpse of Aconcagua, the highest summit in this range. After crossing the border into Chile we strapped in for the ¨caracoles¨ or the 30 some switchbacks winding down the mountain, sitting in the top front really made us weak in the knees!!

Near Santiago we continued our wine tourism in the Maipo Valley at Concha y Toro winery, the third largest wine exporter in the world! I also had the pleasure of having worked for this company so it was nostalgic to go back and see old friends and the devil himself in his cellar, the Casillero del Diablo. After a long gourmet lunch at Septimo Cielo in Pirque we made our way back to centro Santiago to the Teatro Municipal where we caught the ballet, La Bella Durmiante or Sleeping Beauty, wonderful!
We continued to tour around the city of nearly six million before we had to take off to the airport. The city is steeped in history and filled with beautiful architecture although it is the fastest developing city in South America. We had a wonderful lunch on historic Calle Londres to reminisce about our adventures and to say goodbye before heading back to our own corners of Canada. Thanks for a grand experience, gals! I won´t forget this one in a long time.

Natascha Radchenko
Spanish and French Guide
Voyages Millefleurs Travel Inc. ¨Your Window on the World of Wine
(& Waterfalls, & Tradition, & Tango and... Adventure!)¨

Italia and Valpolicella, a "valley full of cellars".

Italy. What time of the year to go to Italy? Anytime or on the shoulder seasons.... our Canadian autumn is a great time to explore the rest of the world that may have a different temperature and growing season than our agricultural ways. The end of September was perfects as it was harvest time and thus we started off on our Harvest Wine Tour of Italy, 2008. Tuscany and Valpolicella in the fall? Our timing could not have been better.

Our tour started in busy Florence and our adventuresome travellers were there a few days early to drink in the culture and get over their jet lag. We delighted in some of the art and history of the capital of Toscana for a few days previous to the tour and as a bonus we got to take in the Florence Wine Festival!! Who knew that it was perfect timing as the vendemmia was in full swing and wine was on the mind...

We carried on south to San Gimignano for some extra special gelato after tasting some Vernaccia in the region. Our mini Maroni bus got us through the hills and valleys with no trouble... a great way to travel indeed, who says that driving in Italy isn´t fun, you just have to keep up!!!

We spent three nights at the apartments of good friends at Il Poderuccio, overlooking the Tuscan hills and the Banfi Estate where we enjoyed the six course luncheon with wine. There was no need for dinner after that special treat! The next days were spent in the small towns, tasting and shopping, of course there was time for a dip in the Thermal Baths of Bagni Vignoni.

Stopping for a gelato and a glance of the Red Beret trickster in the Piazza del Campo of Siena, we carried on through the countryside to Lucca, the walled city. What an excellent place to shop!

The night was spent in the hills of Camaiore with a dear friend who welcomed us with a glass of wine and a luxurious bed. The view of the Versilia coast was spectacular and we were lucky to be able so spend three nights in the region of Viareggio exploring the art of Pietrasanta and the coastline of the Unesco World Heritage Site, Cinque Terre. I was proud of our group as they took advantage of the walk through the ¨five towns¨ and did it all by foot! We coudn´t have asked for better weather and more adventuresome clients.

On the speedy autostrada to Valpolicella we encountered some fast cars. Lambhorghinis and Ferrarris made their presence known so we decided to make a stop at the Ferrarri Museum near Modena to make us feel part of the Italian racing culture! Of course our nine passenger van didn´t go nearly as quickly but we sure gave it our all as we precipitated up through Verona to dine at the Trattoria di Bepi . The Amarones and Ripassos made by our good friend Giuseppe Lonardi were on par with the wonderful varietals of the region ¨full of cellars¨.

During our stay at La Foresteria, we were graced with the presence of the Count of Serego Alighieri. We our wine taste and stay on the Estate was a real highlight as we relaxed in the vineyard housing and learned the in depth secrets of Serego Alighieri´s tradition in winemaking. In the region we toured Verona at a leisurely pace to take in the art, music and fashion. Also a day was spent ferrying around the beautiful Lago di Garda as we explored Sirmione, Lazise and Garda. Exquiste.

Our last leg of the Harvest Wine tour had us visit one of the most popular cities in Italy, yes, Venice. The city built on water is not only unique in the world but filled with history and amazing architecture. We met some kind locals who told us the history of Venice and we met some jovial waiters at one of the best seafood restaurants in town, Ristorante Riviera. Our farewell meal was just what we needed to top off an excellent tour.

With our small group of six we had an wonderful time getting to know one another and we were even able to share lots of inside jokes! The cohesiveness of our travel companions made it a wonderful guiding experience for me, all the while touring a country steeped in history and gastronomical delights, not to mention really, really good wine.

Next post is our fall adventure in Brazil, Argentina and Chile; Wine and Waterfalls tour for Women. This one will be a great adventure as we cross three countries and several wine growing regions!

Grazie mille for a great tour travel companions,

Natascha Radchenko
Your window on the world of wine!